ABCs of the Aperitivo

The ABCs of the Aperitivo: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry, Italian Style

By Kristine Jannuzzi

QUESTION: When my wife and I were in Florence for our honeymoon, we were a little confused when we stopped for a drink in the early evening and encountered the “aperitivo.” I think what threw us at first was that it was pretty sumptuous, at least compared to American happy hours. The bar we were in was a modest place, but the food they served was what you’d expect to find at a nice restaurant – I can’t recall exactly, but I think there was bruschetta and cured meats, among other things. We were just surprised at the quality of the food and weren’t sure if we were supposed to be paying for it or not. So what exactly is the concept behind the Italian aperitivo?
– Travis, NYC

ANSWER: Leave it to the Italians to take the already pleasurable act of relaxing with a drink in the company of friends and turn it into something even more enjoyable. The word aperitivo literally translates to “pre-dinner drink,” but it has come to represent a custom that is as essential to socializing in Italy as hanging out in the piazza.

Like American happy hours, the aperitivo is an opportunity to unwind at the end of the day. But rather than offering discounted drink specials, bars that host aperitivi serve complimentary appetizers called stuzzichini (from the verb stuzzicare, “to tease”) to tantalize your taste buds before dinner. And some places offer such an abundance of yummy dishes that you may not be hungry for a full meal later on.

Italians stop off for an aperitivo on the way home from work or before heading on to dinner with friends or family. Sometimes the aperitivo itself may be the main event of the evening. In Florence, the typical hours are from 7-9pm, but you’ll know for certain it’s aperitivo time by the people spilling out of the bars into the streets, talking, mingling, and checking out new arrivals as they pull up on motorini or exchange double kisses with friends. There’s an element of theater to this ritual that is distinctly Italian, and it’s an experience not to be missed when you are in Italy.

On a recent trip back to Florence, I visited some of the best places to get a taste of the aperitivo at its finest, from classic bars with an impressive history to trendy hot spots that are new on the scene. One of the most elegant is Cantinetta Antinori, the beautiful wine bar on Via Tornabuoni housed in the palazzo that has been the Antinori family’s official residence for centuries. Thanks to my cousin Pèpe, I had a chance to talk to Daniele Benci, longtime manager of the Cantinetta Antinori and a true aficionado of the aperitivo in Florence. Pèpe partners with Piero Antinori at their restaurant named Pèppoli in Pebble Beach, California and works closely with Piero in helping promote Antinori wines in America.

Daniele eloquently describes the aperitivo as un buon augurio di una bella serata, or “a good omen for a beautiful evening.” He elaborates, “I like to think of the aperitivo as a moment of introduction to the evening…if we are going to dinner with a group of friends, we know it is beautiful to start the night with a glass of wine, nibbling on something, and above all savoring the occasion to be together in good company.”

At Cantinetta Antinori, the aperitivo is based upon pairing an appropriate wine with seasonal Tuscan products of the highest quality. When I was there this summer, Daniele suggested we start with a glass of spumante and brought over a plate of pecorino and a basket of schiacciata al pomodoro, a traditional Tuscan flat bread. We then had a glass of rosé paired with a sampling of tasty Tuscan crostini (toasted bread) with different toppings such as tomatoes and mushrooms.

Another great place for an aperitivo just down the street from the Cantinetta is Caffè Giacosa. The iconic bar has been a favorite among Florentines for well over a hundred years and is the birthplace of the famous Negroni cocktail, one of the most popular aperitivo choices for Italians. Fashion designer Roberto Cavalli is now the owner, so it’s no surprise that the space is stylishly decorated with striking black and white photos on the walls and an outdoor terrace complete with overhead misters to keep patrons cool in the warm weather.

Across the Arno in the trendy San Niccolò neighborhood, there are several hip places that are always bustling with activity during the aperitivo and well into the night. Many of them, such as Zoe, Rifrullo, and Negroni, offer a full spread, buffet style, that could very well serve as your dinner. Plates might include hot and cold pasta dishes, pizzette (small pizzas), hunks of parmiggiano, affettati (sliced meats such as prosciutto and sopressata), orzo or rice salads, and more elaborate dishes, depending on the place and the season.

For a spectacular view from May through September, check out the hot spot Flò, just next to Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking the city center. The large outdoor space has a real “see and be seen” atmosphere, with several bars and terraces for mingling and beds for lounging. Flò also offers an impressive buffet during their aperitivo and draws a mix of locals and expats throughout the summer.

Whatever setting you choose, going for an aperitivo is the perfect way to end your day and begin your evening in Italy. There’s little doubt that Italians know how to get it right when it comes to eating, drinking, and socializing, and the aperitivo is a happy union of all three.

-Kristine Jannuzzi

Where to Go for an Aperitivo in Florence

Cantinetta Antinori Piazza Antinori 3 | tel: 055 292 234

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Procacci Via Tornabuoni, 64/r | 50123 Florence | tel: 39 055 211656

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Caffè Giacosa Via della Spada, 10 | tel: 055 277 6328

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Il Rifrullo Via di San Niccolò, 55/r | tel: 055 234 2621

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The Fusion Bar Gallery Hotel Art | Vicolo dell’Oro 3 | tel: 055 27263

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Zoe Via dei Renai, 13 | tel: 055 243111

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Negroni via dei Renai 17/r | tel: 055 243647

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Flò Lounge Bar Via Vittorio Fossombroni, 2 | tel: 055 2001497

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